The frustration is real. You’ve invested time and money in achieving that perfect permanent hair colour, only to see it slowly (or sometimes, rapidly!) fade away. What was once a vibrant, rich hue is now a muted shadow of its former glory. You’re left wondering, “Why is my permanent hair colour washing out?”
You’re not alone. Hair colour fade is a common concern, and understanding the underlying reasons is the first step towards maintaining your desired shade for longer. Let’s delve into the key factors contributing to colour loss and explore how to combat them.
Understanding Permanent Hair Colour: It’s Not So Permanent
It’s essential to clarify what “permanent” actually means in the context of hair colour. Unlike semi-permanent or temporary dyes that simply coat the hair shaft, permanent hair colour chemically alters the hair structure. The process involves opening the hair cuticle (the outer protective layer) to allow the colour molecules to penetrate the cortex (the inner layer where the pigment resides). A developer, usually hydrogen peroxide, lifts the natural hair pigment and allows the new colour to deposit.
The term “permanent” refers to the fact that the colour molecules become trapped within the hair shaft and cannot be easily washed out with water alone. However, it doesn’t mean the colour will last indefinitely. External factors, chemical processes, and even the hair’s natural porosity can all contribute to fading over time. The dye molecules become smaller and wash out more readily.
The Culprits Behind the Fade: External Factors
Many external factors contribute to hair colour fade. Understanding these elements allows you to adjust your hair care routine accordingly.
Sun Exposure: A Major Foe
The sun’s ultraviolet (UV) rays are a powerful bleaching agent. Just as they can fade fabrics and damage skin, they can also break down the colour molecules in your hair. Prolonged sun exposure is a significant cause of hair colour fade, especially for red and brown shades.
Consider your daily activities. Do you spend a lot of time outdoors? If so, your hair is likely exposed to significant UV radiation.
Water Woes: Hard Water and Chlorine
Water quality plays a crucial role in hair colour retention. Hard water, which contains high levels of minerals like calcium and magnesium, can deposit these minerals on the hair shaft. These mineral deposits create a barrier, preventing hair products from penetrating properly and causing the hair to feel dull and weighed down. Over time, they can also react with the hair dye, leading to colour changes and fading.
Chlorine, commonly found in swimming pools, is another significant culprit. Chlorine is a bleaching agent that strips the hair of its natural oils and can dramatically accelerate colour fade. Light hair colours can even turn greenish after repeated exposure to chlorinated water.
Heat Styling Havoc: Protect Your Locks
Heat styling tools, such as hair dryers, curling irons, and straighteners, can damage the hair cuticle and make it more porous. This increased porosity allows colour molecules to escape more easily. Excessive heat weakens the hair and leads to colour fading and dryness. The constant application of high heat alters the protein structures inside the hair.
The Culprits Behind the Fade: Hair Care Habits
Your hair care routine can significantly impact the longevity of your hair colour. Using the wrong products or engaging in harmful practices can accelerate fading.
Shampoo Selection: Choose Wisely
Not all shampoos are created equal. Many commercially available shampoos contain harsh sulfates (such as sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate) that can strip the hair of its natural oils and colour. Sulfate-containing shampoos are particularly detrimental to coloured hair. The abrasive nature of sulfates opens the hair cuticle and allows colour molecules to leach out.
Choosing a sulfate-free shampoo specifically formulated for colour-treated hair is crucial. These shampoos are gentler on the hair and help to preserve the colour.
Washing Frequency: Less is More
Every time you wash your hair, you’re slightly diminishing the colour. Over-washing is a major contributor to colour fade. The water itself, especially when hot, can open the hair cuticle and release colour molecules.
Try to extend the time between washes. Consider using dry shampoo to absorb excess oil and refresh your hair without stripping it of colour.
Conditioning is Key: Lock in Moisture
Conditioning is essential for maintaining healthy, vibrant hair colour. Conditioners help to close the hair cuticle, locking in moisture and colour. Regular conditioning prevents the hair from becoming dry and porous, which can lead to faster colour fade. Deep conditioning treatments can also help to repair damaged hair and improve colour retention.
Towel Drying: Be Gentle
The way you dry your hair can also affect colour retention. Roughly towel-drying your hair can damage the cuticle and cause frizz, leading to colour fade. Instead, gently blot your hair with a soft towel to remove excess water.
The Culprits Behind the Fade: Hair’s Internal Structure
The condition and structure of your hair itself plays a vital role in colour retention. Porosity, in particular, is a key factor.
Porosity Problems: The Hair’s Absorbency
Hair porosity refers to the hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture. Hair can be classified as having low, medium, or high porosity.
- Low Porosity: Hair with low porosity has a tightly bound cuticle, making it difficult for moisture and colour to penetrate. While this means it takes longer for the hair to absorb colour initially, it also tends to retain colour for longer.
- Medium Porosity: Hair with medium porosity has a balanced cuticle that allows for good moisture absorption and retention. This type of hair generally holds colour well.
- High Porosity: Hair with high porosity has a raised or damaged cuticle, making it easy for moisture to be absorbed, but also easy for it to be lost. High porosity hair is prone to colour fade because the colour molecules can escape easily. Damage from heat styling, chemical treatments, and environmental factors can contribute to high porosity.
Understanding your hair’s porosity is crucial for choosing the right hair care products and treatments to maximize colour retention.
Pre-Existing Damage: Colour’s Arch-Enemy
Damaged hair, whether from heat styling, chemical treatments, or environmental factors, is more porous and prone to colour fade. Damaged hair has a compromised cuticle that cannot effectively retain colour molecules. Before colouring your hair, it’s essential to address any existing damage.
Colouring Techniques and Their Impact
The colouring process itself can influence how long your colour lasts.
The Initial Application: A Crucial Step
The quality of the initial hair colouring application significantly impacts the longevity of the colour. An uneven or poorly executed application can lead to uneven colour fade. Using high-quality hair dye and following the manufacturer’s instructions carefully are essential.
Consulting a professional hair colourist is highly recommended, especially for significant colour changes or if you have damaged hair. A professional can assess your hair’s condition, choose the appropriate dye, and apply it correctly to minimize damage and maximize colour retention.
Darker Shades vs. Lighter Shades: A Colour Fade Comparison
Darker hair colours, such as deep browns and blacks, tend to last longer than lighter shades, such as blondes and reds. This is because darker pigments are generally larger and more resistant to fading. Red hair dye is notoriously prone to fading because red colour molecules are the largest.
Lighter shades often require more processing, which can damage the hair and make it more susceptible to colour fade.
Combating Colour Fade: Proactive Strategies
Now that we’ve identified the key factors contributing to hair colour fade, let’s explore some proactive strategies to help you maintain your desired shade for longer.
Shield from the Sun: UV Protection
Protecting your hair from the sun’s harmful UV rays is crucial. Wear a hat or scarf when spending extended periods outdoors. Use hair products that contain UV filters to shield your hair from sun damage. Many leave-in conditioners and styling products offer UV protection.
Water Wise: Mitigating Water Damage
If you live in an area with hard water, consider installing a shower filter to remove minerals. Rinse your hair with filtered water after shampooing to minimize mineral buildup. After swimming in chlorinated water, rinse your hair immediately with clean water and use a clarifying shampoo to remove chlorine residue.
Heat Styling Habits: Dial Down the Heat
Reduce your use of heat styling tools. When you do use them, always apply a heat protectant spray to shield your hair from damage. Use the lowest heat setting possible to achieve your desired style. Air-drying your hair whenever possible is also a great way to minimize heat damage.
Shampoo Strategies: Gentle Cleansing
Switch to a sulfate-free shampoo specifically formulated for colour-treated hair. Wash your hair less frequently and use lukewarm water instead of hot water. Consider co-washing (washing your hair with conditioner only) to cleanse your hair without stripping it of colour.
Deep Conditioning Defense: Hydrate and Repair
Incorporate regular deep conditioning treatments into your hair care routine. Deep conditioners help to hydrate and repair damaged hair, improving colour retention. Look for deep conditioners that contain ingredients like keratin, argan oil, or shea butter.
Colour-Depositing Products: A Refreshing Boost
Use colour-depositing shampoos and conditioners to refresh your colour between salon visits. These products contain pigments that deposit colour onto the hair shaft, helping to maintain the vibrancy of your shade. Use colour-depositing products that closely match your hair colour.
Professional Touch-Ups: Maintaining Your Look
Schedule regular touch-up appointments with your hair colourist to maintain your colour and address any root regrowth. A professional can also assess your hair’s condition and recommend appropriate treatments to keep your colour looking its best.
Why does my permanent hair colour seem to fade even though it’s supposed to be permanent?
Permanent hair colour, despite its name, doesn’t actually last forever. The term refers to the way the colour penetrates the hair shaft, opening the cuticle and depositing the dye molecules inside. While these molecules are larger and more resistant to washing out than temporary dyes, various external factors and improper hair care practices can weaken the colour, causing it to fade over time. Essentially, the term “permanent” is relative, referring to the process rather than a guaranteed lifetime of unwavering colour.
Think of your hair as a sponge. While the dye fills the sponge’s pores, constant washing, heat styling, and sun exposure can gradually squeeze the colour out. Even products with harsh chemicals, like some shampoos, can strip the colour away. The porosity of your hair also plays a crucial role; highly porous hair tends to lose colour faster as it struggles to retain moisture and, subsequently, the dye molecules.
How does washing my hair contribute to permanent hair colour fading?
Washing your hair too frequently is a significant contributor to colour fade. Every time you shampoo, even with colour-safe products, you’re opening the hair cuticle to some degree. This allows a small amount of dye to escape with each wash. Hot water is particularly damaging, as it opens the cuticle wider than lukewarm or cool water, accelerating the colour loss.
Furthermore, the type of shampoo you use matters greatly. Sulphate-based shampoos, known for their strong cleansing properties, are notorious for stripping away colour molecules. Look for sulphate-free shampoos specifically formulated for colour-treated hair. These are designed to be gentler and help maintain the vibrancy of your dye for longer.
Can heat styling tools really affect my permanent hair colour?
Absolutely. Excessive heat from styling tools like hair dryers, straighteners, and curling irons is a major culprit in colour fade. Heat causes the hair cuticle to lift, allowing dye molecules to escape more easily. The intense heat can also damage the dye molecules themselves, altering their composition and diminishing their vibrancy.
To minimise heat damage and prolong your colour, always use a heat protectant spray before styling. Lower the temperature settings on your tools, and try to limit your use of heat styling whenever possible. Embrace air-drying or heatless styling methods to give your hair a break and prevent further colour loss.
Does sun exposure fade permanent hair colour?
Yes, prolonged exposure to the sun’s ultraviolet (UV) rays can significantly fade permanent hair colour. UV rays have a bleaching effect, breaking down the dye molecules and causing the colour to lose its intensity. This is similar to how the sun fades fabrics and other pigmented materials.
To protect your hair from sun damage, wear a hat or scarf when spending extended periods outdoors. You can also use hair products that contain UV filters, such as leave-in conditioners or sprays specifically designed for colour protection. These products help shield your hair from the harmful effects of the sun and preserve your colour for longer.
How does the type of water I use affect my permanent hair colour?
The type of water you use to wash your hair can surprisingly impact colour retention. Hard water, which is high in minerals like calcium and magnesium, can deposit these minerals onto your hair, creating a buildup that dulls the colour and makes it look faded. These minerals can also interfere with the effectiveness of your shampoo and conditioner.
Consider installing a shower filter to remove these minerals from the water. Alternatively, you can use a clarifying shampoo occasionally to remove mineral buildup, but be mindful that clarifying shampoos can also strip colour, so use them sparingly. Some people find success with rinsing their hair with distilled water as a final step after washing, helping to remove any remaining mineral residue.
Are there specific hair products I should avoid after colouring my hair?
Yes, certain hair products can accelerate colour fade and should be avoided or used sparingly after colouring. Shampoos and conditioners containing sulphates, alcohol, or harsh detergents are particularly damaging, as they strip the hair of its natural oils and colour molecules. Products with high pH levels can also be detrimental, as they open the hair cuticle and allow colour to escape.
Avoid using products that contain clarifying agents unless absolutely necessary, and always opt for colour-safe formulas specifically designed for treated hair. Check product labels carefully and choose products that are gentle, hydrating, and free of harsh chemicals. Look for products containing ingredients like antioxidants and UV protectants to help preserve your colour and protect your hair from damage.
What can I do to maintain my permanent hair colour for longer?
To maximize the longevity of your permanent hair colour, adopt a comprehensive hair care routine focused on hydration and protection. Use sulphate-free shampoo and conditioner formulated for colour-treated hair, and wash your hair less frequently, ideally only when necessary. Always use lukewarm or cool water to rinse your hair to help seal the cuticle and prevent colour from leaching out.
Implement a weekly deep conditioning treatment to replenish moisture and strengthen your hair. Apply a heat protectant spray before using any heat styling tools, and limit your exposure to the sun by wearing a hat or using UV-protectant hair products. Consider using a colour-depositing conditioner or gloss between salon visits to refresh your colour and maintain its vibrancy.