Christmas in Provence, France, is a feast for the senses. While the holiday is celebrated with all the traditional cheer and religious significance found elsewhere, the Provençal region adds a unique and deeply rooted culinary tradition: the thirteen desserts (lei tretze desserts in Provençal). These aren’t just any desserts; they are a symbolic representation of Christ and the twelve apostles at the Last Supper. Understanding this custom unveils a rich tapestry of history, culture, and, of course, delectable treats.
The Significance of Thirteen
Why thirteen? The number holds deep religious significance, representing Jesus Christ and his twelve apostles. These desserts are typically served after the “gros souper,” a light supper enjoyed on Christmas Eve before attending Midnight Mass (Messe de Minuit). The desserts remain on the table for three days, until December 27th, allowing family and guests to partake in the sweet bounty of the season. This prolonged offering emphasizes hospitality and sharing, core values of the Provençal Christmas spirit. Each dessert also carries its own symbolism, often connected to regional agriculture and historical events.
A Deep Dive into the Desserts
While the exact composition of the thirteen desserts can vary slightly from family to family and village to village, a general consensus exists on the core elements. Understanding the categories and most popular choices within those categories allows one to truly appreciate the diversity and intention behind this tradition. The desserts can be categorized broadly into dried fruits and nuts, fresh fruits, confectionery, and traditional cakes and pastries.
Dried Fruits and Nuts: The Foundation of Provençal Abundance
Dried fruits and nuts form the backbone of the thirteen desserts, representing the bounty of the Provençal countryside and the stores prepared for the winter months. These nutrient-rich foods were essential for sustenance and were considered a symbol of prosperity.
Dates (Dattes): Representing the origin of Christianity, dates are almost universally included. They symbolize the presence of Christ. Their sweetness and sticky texture are reminiscent of the warm climate from which they originate.
Dried Figs (Figues sèches): Figs, a staple fruit of the Mediterranean region, represent abundance and prosperity. Their chewy texture and natural sweetness make them a delightful addition to the festive table.
Raisins (Raisins secs): Similar to figs, raisins symbolize abundance and wealth, representing the fruits of the vine and the promise of a bountiful harvest.
Almonds (Amandes): Symbolizing sweetness and happiness, almonds are a key element. In some families, they represent the apostle James the Greater.
Walnuts (Noix): Representing the apostle John, walnuts signify wisdom and good fortune. Their distinct flavor and satisfying crunch make them a popular choice.
Hazelnuts (Noisettes): Another common nut, hazelnuts represent the joy and celebration of Christmas. Their delicate flavor complements the other desserts.
Dried Plums (Pruneaux): Dried plums bring a touch of tartness to balance the sweetness of the other desserts. They represent the apostle Peter in some families.
Fresh Fruits: A Touch of Seasonal Delight
Adding a touch of freshness to the rich assortment of dried goods, fresh fruits highlight the bounty of the Provençal harvest. These fruits are chosen based on their availability during the Christmas season.
Oranges (Oranges) or Clementines (Clémentines): These citrus fruits provide a refreshing burst of flavor and color. They represent the warmth and light of the Christmas season. Their bright aroma fills the air, adding to the festive atmosphere.
Apples (Pommes): Simple and satisfying, apples represent simplicity and humility. Their crisp texture and subtle sweetness provide a delightful contrast to the richer desserts.
Pears (Poires): Similar to apples, pears are a seasonal fruit that adds a touch of freshness to the display. Their smooth texture and delicate flavor make them a welcome addition.
Confectionery: Sweet Temptations and Regional Specialties
This category encompasses a variety of candies and sweets, showcasing the regional culinary expertise and providing a sugary indulgence for the holiday season.
Nougat (Nougat): Nougat, a confection made with honey, sugar, and nuts, is a quintessential Provençal treat. There are typically three types of nougat offered: black nougat (nougat noir) made with honey, white nougat (nougat blanc) made with almonds and honey, and red nougat (nougat rouge). Black nougat represents the darkness of sin, white nougat represents purity, and red nougat represents happiness.
Quince Paste (Pâte de Coing): This dense, sweet paste made from quince fruit is a traditional delicacy. Its unique flavor and slightly grainy texture make it a distinctive addition to the dessert spread.
Traditional Cakes and Pastries: Regional Delights
These baked goods represent the culinary heritage of Provence and offer a satisfying conclusion to the thirteen desserts experience.
Pompe à l’Huile (Pompe à l’Huile): This sweet olive oil bread is a cornerstone of the thirteen desserts. It’s a flatbread flavored with orange blossom water, giving it a distinctive aroma and taste. Tradition dictates that the pompe à l’huile must be broken by hand, not cut, to avoid bad luck in the coming year. It symbolizes the gifts offered to baby Jesus.
Cachadou (Cachadou): A cheese originating from the Alps. Though not a dessert per se, this cheese is a common part of the thirteen desserts tradition.
Variations and Regional Differences
While the core elements of the thirteen desserts remain consistent, regional variations and family traditions contribute to the diversity of the practice. Some families might include additional dried fruits, such as prunes or apricots. Others might add regional specialties like calissons d’Aix (almond-shaped candies from Aix-en-Provence) or oreillettes (thin, crispy fritters). The specific types of nougat offered can also vary, reflecting local preferences and available ingredients. The spirit of the tradition lies in the act of sharing and celebrating together, making room for personalized interpretations.
The Enduring Appeal of a Provençal Tradition
The thirteen desserts of Christmas is more than just a collection of sweets; it’s a living tradition that connects generations, celebrates regional identity, and embodies the spirit of hospitality. By understanding the symbolism and the cultural significance of each dessert, one can truly appreciate the richness and depth of this Provençal custom. It’s a delicious journey through history, agriculture, and the heartwarming traditions of Christmas in France. The tradition has evolved over time, reflecting the changing availability of ingredients and the evolving tastes of each generation. Despite these changes, the core values of sharing, community, and religious observance remain central to the experience. The enduring appeal of the thirteen desserts lies in its ability to connect people to their past while creating lasting memories for the future. It’s a sweet reminder of the importance of family, tradition, and the simple joys of life. This tradition highlights the importance of food in cultural identity.
Beyond the Plate: The Cultural Context
The thirteen desserts are not enjoyed in isolation. They are part of a broader Christmas Eve celebration that includes the “gros souper” (light supper) and attendance at Midnight Mass. The family gathers for a simple meal, often featuring dishes like fish or vegetable soup, before indulging in the desserts. Attending Midnight Mass is a central aspect of the Christmas Eve tradition for many Provençal families. After Mass, the family returns home to share the thirteen desserts, marking the true beginning of the Christmas festivities. The desserts remain on display for several days, inviting family and friends to partake in the sweet abundance of the season.
Experiencing the Thirteen Desserts Today
For those visiting Provence during the Christmas season, experiencing the thirteen desserts is a must. Many restaurants and patisseries offer selections of the desserts, allowing visitors to sample the regional specialties. Local markets often feature stalls selling the ingredients needed to create the thirteen desserts at home, providing an opportunity to participate in the tradition firsthand. Attending a Christmas Eve service in a Provençal village offers a glimpse into the heart of the tradition. Observing the family gatherings and the sharing of the thirteen desserts provides a unique and memorable cultural experience.
The Future of a Sweet Legacy
The thirteen desserts tradition continues to thrive in Provence, passed down from generation to generation. While modern life and changing tastes may influence the specific desserts included, the core values of sharing, community, and religious observance remain central to the experience. The thirteen desserts serve as a reminder of the importance of preserving cultural heritage and celebrating the unique traditions that make each region special. It is a sweet legacy that will continue to delight and inspire for years to come. The commitment to preserving tradition while adapting to contemporary lifestyles ensures the continued vibrancy of this unique Christmas custom.
A Summary of the Sweet Thirteen
Here’s a quick recap of the most common thirteen desserts, categorized for easy reference:
- Dried Fruits and Nuts: Dates, dried figs, raisins, almonds, walnuts, hazelnuts, dried plums.
- Fresh Fruits: Oranges/Clementines, apples, pears.
- Confectionery: Nougat (black, white, red), quince paste.
- Traditional Cakes and Pastries: Pompe à l’Huile, Cachadou.
Understanding these key components provides a solid foundation for appreciating the depth and diversity of this cherished Provençal tradition.
The Art of Presentation
The presentation of the thirteen desserts is an art in itself. The desserts are typically arranged on a large table, often covered with a festive tablecloth. The arrangement should be visually appealing, showcasing the variety of colors and textures. The desserts are meant to be shared, so they should be easily accessible to all. The act of selecting and arranging the desserts is a labor of love, reflecting the care and attention that goes into creating a memorable Christmas celebration. The visual abundance and festive atmosphere contribute to the overall enjoyment of the thirteen desserts experience.
What exactly are the 13 Desserts of Christmas and where did this tradition originate?
The 13 Desserts of Christmas, or “Les Treize Desserts” in French, is a traditional Provençal Christmas custom centered around thirteen different sweet treats served after the large Christmas Eve dinner (le Gros Souper) and ideally remaining on the table for the following three days. The desserts are meant to represent Jesus Christ and his twelve apostles. This vibrant and elaborate custom adds a festive and symbolic element to the Christmas celebrations in Provence, France, emphasizing sharing and abundance during the holiday season.
The precise origin of the 13 Desserts isn’t definitively known, with various theories circulating. It is generally believed to have taken shape in the 17th century, though its formal codification as a set tradition happened much later, around the 1920s, with the efforts of Provençal folklorist Joseph Fallen. Before this, various families and villages adhered to their own variations of desserts, but the core concept of a lavish and symbolic dessert spread celebrating unity and the Holy Family was always present.
Are the 13 Desserts always the same, or do they vary by region or family?
While the core symbolism remains consistent, the specific desserts included in the 13 Desserts do indeed vary from region to region and even family to family within Provence. The tradition is deeply rooted in local ingredients and preferences. Therefore, what you might find in a household in Marseille might differ from what’s served in a village near Aix-en-Provence. However, a few key desserts are almost always included, representing specific symbolic meanings.
The common variations reflect the availability of local produce and nuts. Coastal regions might feature more candied fruits, while inland areas could lean towards locally grown nuts and dried figs. Family traditions also play a significant role, with recipes and preferences passed down through generations. These personalized touches contribute to the rich tapestry of the 13 Desserts tradition, making each celebration unique.
What are some of the most common desserts found in the 13 Desserts tradition?
Several desserts appear consistently across most Provençal celebrations of the 13 Desserts. These typically include the “pompe à l’huile,” a sweet olive oil flatbread; the four “mendiants” or beggars, representing the four major religious orders (Dominicans, Franciscans, Augustinians, and Carmelites) through different colored nuts and dried fruits; dried figs; raisins; almonds; and hazelnuts. These represent the religious orders through their colours: raisins (Dominicans – purple), almonds (Carmelites – white), figs (Franciscans – grey) and walnuts/hazelnuts (Augustinians – black).
Beyond these staples, other popular desserts include nougat (both black and white varieties), dates (often stuffed with marzipan), candied fruits (such as melon and citrus peels), calissons d’Aix (a diamond-shaped candy made from almond paste and candied melon), and apples or pears. The specific selection is often chosen to represent both the abundance of the season and the unique culinary heritage of the family and region.
What is the significance of the “pompe à l’huile” in the 13 Desserts?
The “pompe à l’huile,” a sweet flatbread made with olive oil, is arguably the most important and symbolic of the 13 Desserts. Its preparation and consumption are steeped in tradition. The bread should never be cut with a knife, as this is said to bring bad luck. Instead, it must be broken by hand, symbolizing the sharing of Christ’s body. The simple ingredients reflect humility and the basic necessities of life.
Beyond its symbolic value, the “pompe à l’huile” also represents the agricultural richness of Provence, where olive oil is a staple. Its sweet flavor and delicate texture make it a delightful treat enjoyed by all ages. Its presence on the table throughout the Christmas period signifies prosperity and goodwill, ensuring a bountiful year to come.
What are the “mendiants” and what do they represent?
The “mendiants,” meaning “beggars” in French, are a crucial part of the 13 Desserts. These are small discs of dried figs, raisins, almonds, and walnuts or hazelnuts, each representing a different religious order. The dark raisins represent the Dominican order, the almonds represent the Carmelite order, the figs represent the Franciscan order, and the walnuts or hazelnuts represent the Augustinian order.
The inclusion of the “mendiants” is a symbolic reminder of the religious foundations of Christmas and the importance of charity and compassion. Each order is associated with a specific color, further enhancing the visual and symbolic richness of the 13 Desserts. Their humble presentation also serves as a reminder of the simple virtues of faith and devotion.
Is it necessary to eat all 13 Desserts to properly observe the tradition?
While the tradition calls for the presentation of all 13 Desserts, it’s not mandatory to consume every single piece of each dessert. The emphasis is more on the symbolism, the shared experience, and the celebration of abundance. It is important to sample each of the 13 desserts to honor the tradition. Families often graze on the desserts over the three days following Christmas Eve, enjoying them at their leisure.
The act of offering and sharing the desserts is more important than forced consumption. The goal is to create a festive and communal atmosphere, celebrating the spirit of Christmas with loved ones. The abundance of sweets symbolizes the blessings of the season and the hope for a prosperous new year. Therefore, enjoying a variety of the desserts with family and friends is the true essence of the tradition.
Beyond the desserts, what other elements contribute to the Christmas Eve celebration in Provence?
The 13 Desserts are just one part of the larger Provençal Christmas Eve celebration, known as “le Gros Souper” (the Big Supper). This typically involves a meatless dinner, often featuring dishes like cod, vegetables, and snails. The meal is traditionally served on three white tablecloths, adorned with sprigs of holly and three white candles, representing the Holy Trinity. After the meal and the desserts, families attend midnight Mass before enjoying the desserts.
Carols are sung, and stories are shared, creating a warm and intimate atmosphere. The focus is on family, faith, and tradition. The crèche, or nativity scene, is a central element of the decoration, often featuring traditional Provençal figurines called “santons.” These elements, combined with the 13 Desserts, create a unique and memorable Christmas experience deeply rooted in Provençal culture and history.